The Italian Collection #3

Here's another piece from Salvatore's shop on Via Romana.  It's another "end-of-the-bolt" piece, 55" wide, and slightly over two yards.  He let me have it for 30 euro, so about $33 US.   It's very light weight, a mix of silk and wool, mostly silk is my guess.  You can't see it very well in the photo, but there's a gold metallic swirl in the print.  

Here's Salvatore himself, showing off the folded fabric:

It has a drape like a challis, and goes beautifully with this:

This piece is a (mostly) wool boucle, with some gold metallic threads.  It came from Valli Tessuti, a very high-end store located just off Via Tornabuoni, at Via della Vigna Nuova, 81/R.  Here's the clerk who helped me, who very kindly let me have the entire bolt, although I only asked for (paid for) enough for a jacket.  I ended up with 2.75 yards of 58" wide fabric, enough for a skirt as well!  

Of course, I had to have a complete outfit, so I headed over to Bacci for the blouse and lining:

I found the perfect olive colored silk  in a crepe-backed satin (or satin-backed crepe, if you prefer), and got three yards (it's 56" wide).  Bacci Tessuti Shop is located in Via dell Ariento 37/R (tail-end of the San Lorenzo market), and definitely has the largest selection of reasonably-priced fabrics in all of Florence.  If you have only time for one store, this should be your destination.

The Italian Collection #2

Here's the Casentino wool again, along with several other pieces. Actually the very first piece I bought was a black wool end cut from Valentino.  Stephanie, who blogs over at "My Vintage Inspiration" has mentioned Salvatore Magherini's Tessuti store on Via Romana 1/R in Florence.  

My apartment was very near to Salvatore's store, so one afternoon I just popped in and asked if he remembered the "donna di Canada" and he did, of course.  We had a nice chat about his fabrics, which are mostly from a store in Bologna that went out of business.  At one point Salvatore was a sarto, a tailor, so he is quite the expert.  The black wool has a subtle pattern, almost like a plaid, created with yarns of a different thickness.  I'd love to find a Vintage Vogue Valentino skirt pattern, but the only one I've seen on eBay is a wrap style, and the fabric is too heavy for that.

The Italian Collection #1

I spent the month of October in Florence, Italy.  Here's a photo of me in the T.A.C.S. Casentino wool store at Borgo Santi Apostoli 43r, just off Via Tornabuoni.  One can order yardage in the colors shows on the chart, in any amount.  This traditional fabric has been made for over 500 years in the Tuscan countryside, and is commonly used for men's overcoats.  I ordered two meters of the reddish brown second from the left.  Here's what I got:

Brighter, and lighter than I expected, but it's a nice rust that will go well with black, brown, gray and ivory.  And, a close-up of the textured surface:

It's quite a thick, heavy fabric (as befitting overcoats), so I am going to look for a simple design.  I'm thinking maybe a cape??  Does anyone have a pattern suggestion?

A New (to me) Online Fabric Resource!

Fashion Fabrics Club (fashionfabricsclub.com) is having a sale!  The last time they had a sale, I ordered three pieces--this Black/brown butterfly print (#44230) is a gorgeous quality silk charmeuse, and still available.   It's getting harder and harder to find silk charmeuse in a wider width (this is 56" wide) at a price like this--$12.56 until August 29, and thereafter $13.95.  I've been seeing prices double these for quite some time.

I love the colors, but because the scale of the print is so large (and I'm petite), I will probably make a kimono style robe--maybe V9218.  When I travel I like to take a silk robe and pajama pants.  I use them with cotton knit tops for comfort.  The silk is lightweight and packs down beautifully, plus, charmeuse is hand washable.

This cheetah print is also still available (#43932) and is much more beautiful in person than either my photo or the one on the site.  It's not an allover print--there's a definite center that's darker, with larger spots.  I got this for my intended Safari Suit--it will be the lining and a blouse, for sure, and there will still be fabric left over!

I wish the website would do a better job with their photos.  They also don't do swatches, but you can order 1/8 or 1/4 of a yard, which is enough to make an infinity scarf.

I did get another cut, but it's sold out now, and my photo doesn't capture it well.  It's a cotton/silk voile, the perfect weight for late summer.  

There are literally hundreds of silk fabrics at Fashion Fabrics Club, as they have just bought out an entire inventory.  I urge you to go over and have a look--these are truly bargain prices, roughly comparable to what I've seen in LA's Fashion District.  These silk charmeuse fabrics are perfect for the lining of a LFJ and a matching blouse.

How I Buy Patterns #2

Previously, I wrote about how I buy patterns (3/7/16).  Today, I thought I would show you in a little more detail how I order from ClubBMV.  

First of all, I review the patterns each season when they first come  out.  I've signed up to receive notices directly from ClubBMV when a new group of patterns is introduced.  Also Shams over at Communing with Fabric often reviews a new collection, musing about what she might buy.

I do the same, and add the pattern numbers to my cart.  Then I wait (this is the hard part):  usually within the month a huge sale is announced.  A one-year subscription to ClubBMV costs $9.99, and you get 20% off right away.  But, if you wait, even the $19.95 Vogue designer patterns are on sale for a limited period of time for $4.79!

V9204 (see above) looks perfect for the silk blouse I'll be making next winter to go with the LFJ which is nearly finished.  Fortunately I had ordered 2 1/2 yards of this 54" wide silk from emmaonesock.com (#47222), so even though I have used some for the lining I think there's enough for a blouse.  I like that there are no buttonholes, and some choices for hemline and sleeve length.

Another benefit of these on-line retailers is that both emmaonesock and ClubBMV keep your orders on file, and you can look at them anytime.  I love this feature--hopefully it will save me from buying duplicates!  

Planning My Summer Wardrobe

I really don't like summer.  Being a redhead, I have to stay out of the sun.  That said, I still have to go places and do things.  Mostly what I do these days is to drive about an hour north to visit my nearly 98-year old mother.  It seems like the average daily temperature there is somewhere between 90 and 100 degrees Fahrenheit.  My wardrobe has been chosen in light colors with the car windows in mind:

Above you see a collection of pants, the one on the left being "me-made," and on the right "store-bought."  Two on the left are self-drafted palazzo-style, and the other two are Marcy Tilton's Vogue 8859.  I love the pleats at the knee, and have made this pattern many times.  I long ago gave up the seam in the back, as matching that with the pleats gave me too much grief. 

Here's a collection of tops.  I almost always wear a sleeveless tank with a top over it, as I like to have my arms covered, at least to below the elbow.  The only topper I made is the one front and center.  I'm not recommending the pattern, which is why I haven't named it.  It's a peasant-style blouse, and there are many such patterns out there as it has been a popular style for some time. 

Usually my tank tops are in a medium dark color, as I want to have some reference to my own coloring (light skin, medium dark hair and eyes). 

Clearly, I need more light-colored tops.  I really don't care much for the peasant-style top, so the next few will open down the front.  And maybe I should branch out and get more color--this collection looks pretty drab to me.

Do you ever line up your clothes like this, so you can see a whole "collection?" 

Sewing Vintage #1

I hadn't really thought about it this way, but apparently I have a "collection" of vintage patterns.  Mostly, because I am loathe to throw anything away.  My female ancestors were like that also.. That's why I have my great-grandmother's wedding bodice from 1888 (a post for another day).

After I graduated from university, where I majored in Home Economics with an emphasis on Textiles and Clothing, I went to San Francisco to work in the Macy's Junior Executive Training Program.  It was a fairly brief stint, as I discovered the retail business and I weren't really suited to each other.  

But while I was there, I used my employee discount to buy designer patterns and the best fabric I could find.  Unfortunately for my budget, Britex Fabrics was right around the corner from Macy's (still is, actually).  The one piece I remember clearly buying from Britex was a yard of beautiful silk charmeuse in a gorgeous yellow and black print.  One yard cost me $25, and I remember thinking how fortunate I was to be able to sew a blouse out it.  At the same time, a colleague bought a RTW blouse that cost her weekly salary, which was around $80! 

The patterns in the photo above are representative of the wardrobe I was busy creating a home, at night, in my tiny studio apartment halfway up Nob Hill.  My fiancé was away training to be an officer in the army, and I planned to have a wardrobe worthy of any officer's wife.  Back in the day, we actually did wear gloves on the street and hats to tea and church.

I made up the two on the left, and even duplicated the emerald green color of the Pierre Cardin.  There was a matching coat, but I didn't really get much use out of either until we returned to California four years later, as my husband and I were posted to Taiwan.  Because the weather on Taiwan was mostly hot and humid, I ended up having to make a wardrobe of mostly cotton and linen.

There are lots of other patterns.  I have been going through them to see what might be useful in my wardrobe today.  There's this:

I have been wanting a Safari Suit, and this might just be the boost I need to start planning it.  All the pieces in the pattern have been cut, but I can't remember what I made from it.  I do remember making up the jumpsuit in an aubergine knit, which I paired with an ankle length sweater in a Missoni-esque design.

Since I am no longer a size 8, I will either have to grade up the pattern, or (and this is more likely) I will take the design details and apply them to one of my TNT patterns.

What about you?  Have you ever sewn from a vintage pattern?  Have you ever intentionally used a design detail from the past?

How I Plan a Seasonal Wardrobe #3

This was a real workhorse outfit during the last late winter/early  spring season.  The fabric is from emmaonesock (#40900), a poly/cotton/elastane combo that promises to wear quite well.  I had actually made the pants in 2015, using Vogue 8929, which I love for the pockets in the front.  I wore them with the Italian animal print laminated linen (which I blogged about 5/31/16) at the American Sewing Guild 2015 National Conference Fashion Show.

The jacket pattern is Butterick 6258, with some changes.  I shortened it to mid-thigh length, a style I first saw in the shop windows in Florence in the fall of 2014.  I widened the band which forms a collar of sorts and continues down the front, as the proportions looked better.  And I added pockets, well, because a girl just can't have too many pockets.  I'm going to use this pattern again, as it went together very quickly and has been a pleasure to wear.

I made this top from a TNT pattern, Vogue 8636, in a cotton jersey from Mood Fabrics.  It's superb quality and still available--#305972.  Good quality cotton jersey is increasingly hard to find, so if the colors fit into your wardrobe, I highly recommend getting some.  What has been your "workhorse" outfit this spring?

How I Plan a Seasonal Wardrobe #2

Here are some more pieces in my wardrobe already:

The leather jacket is one I bought a couple of seasons ago in Florence, Italy.  I have worn it with the ivory silk pants shown in the previous post, but it deserves some other partners.

The second jacket is one I made for the American Sewing Guild Jacket Challenge in 2014.  The fabric is am Italian animal print laminated linen from emmaonesock, and I think the pattern was a McCalls, but I didn't make a note of it at the time.  It does have princess lines, which I like for the fitting opportunities.  I did a Hong Kong finish on the seams (purchased bias binding), as it does not have a lining.

Just as my fall/winter basic color scheme is black and gray, my spring/summer basic color scheme is brown and beige.  Jackets are the base of my wardrobe, because here in Southern California we have "May gray" and "June gloom" to contend with, weather-wise. So, while the calendar may say Spring, the thermometer says that every outfit must have a layering piece.

So, how do you organize your seasonal wardrobe?  How do you start?

How I Plan a Seasonal Wardrobe #1

First I look at what's in my closet already.

Here I am at the Los Angeles Music Center, where I recently attended a wonderful performance of one of my favorite operas, "La Boheme."  I had made this jacket and pants last year with silk fabrics purchased at a local store.   The pattern for the jacket is S2284, which I like because of the princess style seams, allowing for lots of fitting.  The pants pattern is some version of a sloper that I keep tweaking.

Next let me show you a close-up of the fabric, which I love for all the options for accessories.  On that day I chose to go with an aubergine RTW knit top and necklace of (fake, I'm afraid, but that's another story) Murano glass, which I also made.  There are rust and coral threads, even teal, in there as well.

The lining is stretch silk charmeuse (#41033) from emmaonesock.  It has a lovely luxurious weight and comes in 96 colors.  You can ask for a swatch for color matching, or you can order the color chart and see all 96 colors for yourself. 

A Silk/Cotton Top

Another top from Simplicity 2893, this fabric is a silk/cotton voile from printedsilkfabric.com.  It's very lightweight, making it an ideal candidate for the suitcase.  It has a smooth surface and an elegant floral pattern.

Dry cleaning is recommended by the seller, so I guess I shouldn't have been too surprised when I washed it by hand and the dye bled out somewhat.  This photo was taken after several such washings, so the garment itself isn't too damaged.

I have been wanting to support local businesses (this one is in Los Angeles), but ordering had to be done by phone.  There was some small problem with the order, and while the seller resolved the issue to my satisfaction, but I don't think I will be ordering again from this source. 

I have another cut from this same seller which I will show you soon.    

     

Capsule Wardrobe, Italy 2015, #8

This top was made from a cotton/lycra knit, from Mood Fabrics.  It travels well, and has held up through several machine washings.

The pattern is Simplicity 1463.  Fortunately I consulted PatternReview.com, and basted up the sides first.  The width across the neckline and bustline was huge, so I took the sides in about 4" total.  I had to make a tuck in the neckline, which kinda works with the stripe.  The sleeve bands were way too tight, and they had to be cut about 2" bigger. 

This is the type of top I like to wear out and about during the day in Italy.  If the temperature soars it can stand alone, although most of the time I wear it with the jacket in Capsule Wardrobe, Italy, 2014, #1. 

Another Vogue 8636 in a Silk/cotton Knit

Here's another great fabric from emmaonesock.com.  It's a silk/cotton/lycra mix and behaved beautifully on my 2015 trip to Italy. You can read about it by putting the fabric number (47292) in the search box on the fabric web-site.  

I used Vogue 8636 again, adding black jet beads to hold the tucks down.  When it came time to finish the edges with the twin-needle hem, I made certain to get a new very fine point needle.  This fabric is surprisingly warm for being so lightweight.  

I wash it by hand, because of the fiber content and the beading.  "Washability" is another factor I consider when choosing what goes into the suitcase, as everything gets worn three or four times.  This top is another that goes with the jacket in my original Capsule Wardrobe.

How I buy patterns

Here's another top made from Vogue 8636, a Marcy Tilton design.  I like that the neckline can be "snugged up" with the tucks.  I generally cut a size 10 at the shoulder and neck, and then grade up to a 14-16 at the hips, to fit my "petite-pear" body type.  I also cut it a bit longer than the pattern calls for and wear it more like a tunic, generally under a "boyfriend" style cashmere sweater.

Unfortunately the pattern is now OOP (out of print), but you can still buy it here (at a hefty price!) or from Amazon, at a somewhat lesser price.  I try to buy patterns when they first come out, watching for the periodic sales at Joann's or through Club BMV.

The fabric is another wonderful cotton knit from Italy, sold by emmaonesock.com.  Good cotton knits are hard to come by these days, so when I see a piece in one of my color families, I snatch it up. 

What to Wear to Dinner!

 Here's another blouse from Simplicity 2892, also made from silk.  This piece is from emmaonesock.com (#42073), a great online source for fabrics.  I love that you can now go to the web-site and see everything you have ever bought from this site.  You can look at the original listing by putting the fabric number in the "search" box.  This is another great "go out to dinner" blouse.

I lengthened the sleeves to end at the wrist, and turned the fabric back on itself to make a hem and casing together.  Then I used 1/4" elastic in the casing, for a simple ruffle effect.  

What to Wear to Dinner? Why, silk and cashmere of course!

This is another top made with Simplicity 2892, a TNT pattern.  I lengthened the sleeves and finished them with 1/4" elastic in a casing.  The fabric is from Discount Fabrics, which in spite of its name, has some of the better fabrics from the Yardage Town chain in San Diego.  I liked it so much I went back for a second cut, which is destined for a jacket lining.

This is the type of top I like to wear out to dinner in Italy.  It's just dressy enough with black pants and a little sparkly jewelry.  Adding  a black cashmere sweater makes it even more special.

You may think silk and cashmere fabrics are a great luxury, but both are incredibly lightweight for the warmth they provide.  And remember, every ounce and every inch matter in a suitcase meant to carry one through a month or more in Italy!

Capsule Wardrobe, Italy 2014, #7

Still using that same OOP pattern Vogue 8925, I made another light-weight top.  The animal print fabric is from that local fabric store, and behaved so poorly that it didn't even make it into the suitcase in 2015.

It's a modal, and stretched out very badly, just during the first wearings.  This is one of the many reasons I am trying to swear off the whole family of rayons, especially if it is called modal or viscose.  

I'm still going to take a chance on some rayon ponte, as it's almost impossible to find medium weight knit fabric for pants that doesn't contain rayon.

Capsule Wardrobe, Italy 2014, #6

Here's another top I made, using another fabric from marcytilton.com.  The black fabric is from a local fabric store, and as it happens the two aren't as compatible as they look here.  The black has "loosened up" and now the garment has to be pressed to bring everything back into line.  

I did wear it in 2015 in Italy, as it meets the criteria of going with both the black pants and the gray ones, and is extremely light-weight.  The weight of a garment is incredibly important to me, as I try to get four to six weeks of clothes in the top half of a 24" suitcase.  I use those "smash-bags" which let you squeeze air out, but each garment that goes along must weigh next to nothing to make the cut.

The pattern is Vogue 8925, unfortunately OOP (out of print) but still available at Club BMV--http://voguepatterns.mccall.com/v8925-products-47552.php

Shopping for Buttons and Trimmings in Florence

Shopping for trimmings and buttons is different in Italy.  Here in the USA, for the most part, we walk through a mega store, locate the aisle with a myriad of buttons on cards, or trimmings wrapped on large spools, and ponder the choices on our own.

In Florence, and I suspect throughout most of Italy, they still do this the old fashioned way.  You have to know what you want before you go in the store!

Now, how does one do that?  In my case, I knew that I would be constructing several Little French Jackets (LFJ).  So, I took with me to Italy large enough samples to see what buttons and trimmings would actually go.  

I was the only person in the (tiny!) store, aside from the clerk (and her friend), and my friend.  For an hour and a half, the clerk, her friend, my friend and I carefully chose the buttons and trimmings for five jackets!!  The benefit of having four pair of eyes on each project is that I got a lot of input, and when I was "stuck" there was a consensus.  Now, how great is that!

The photo above is from my favorite "passamanerie" (trimmings store), Valmar, on Via Porta Rossa, 53 R, Firenze.  http://www.valmar-florence.com.

Another question you might have:  how did I know this store is where one goes for buttons and trimmings for clothing?  Nothing in the window or on display in the store gives much of a clue.   Confession:  I have a little book, "Finding Fabric and Fashion Abroad--Florence" by Jennefer Penfold.  It was published in 2012, so not everything is up-to-date, but it was a help to me in the beginning.

So, for a tiny little "insider" experience, if you go to Italy, and you are a sewist looking for buttons and trimmings, keep this word in mind, "passamanerie."

Capsule Wardrobe, Italy 2014, #5

This top is made from the same fabric as CW (Capsule Wardrobe) #3, which I got from marcytilton.com.  I used Vogue 1363 as the pattern, which was designed by Sandra Betzina, known for crafting well-fitting garments.  The black knit fabric is from a locally owned fabric store, Yardage Town.

Here's an interesting observation:  this top is actually very warm, because it is cut close to the body.  On the other hand, the loose fitting kimono style jacket in #3 is not cut close to the body at all, and it is quite well suited to warmer days.  Just one more observation on the fact that style and fabric both play an important role in the final outcome and the eventual use of the garment.

Capsule Wardrobe Italy 2014, #4

Here's the second pair of pants, made from Marcy Tilton's gray ponte.  I used the same fabric for the collar of the jacket you saw earlier in CW #1.  I highly recommend the pattern, V 8925.  It has all the features I look for -- slim lines, a little design interest (unusual seaming, in this case), and a pull-on waist.  There's a little bit of pilling, but I can live with it, using a little scissors, or a specially made pill remover.

The blouse is a light-weight silk from emmaonesock.com.  The pattern is S 2892, which I have made so many times I have to call it a TNT (Tried N' True).   I love silk--it "breathes" -- which means it's comfortable -- and you can pack five or six silk pieces in place of one cotton piece.  Remember, every ounce and every inch count when you are packing for a month or longer.

What is a "Capsule Wardrobe?"

While many people have created and written about Capsule Wardrobes, the explanation and examples I like best are presented by Nancy Nix-Rice in her recently revised book, Looking Good . . . every day.

The base is a set of colors: a dark neutral, a light neutral, and an accent, plus a print. (In my experience, the print is the hardest to find...)

NNR asks for:

4 underlayer tops, in the three colors and the print.

3 overlayer tops, in the solid colors

3 trousers, in the neutrals

2 skirts, in the dark neutral and the print

I highly advise buying the book to have a look at her handy chart, "Your Basic 12-Piece Capsule Worksheet."

This concept formed the basis for my original 2014 Italy Capsule Wardrobe.

I didn't follow it exactly, as you will see, needing more than four under layer tops, and only one skirt.  I also had to span two seasons and three locations:  late summer in the country and Naples, and early fall in Florence.