Saturday, January 23, 2016

Shopping for Buttons and Trimmings in Florence


Shopping for trimmings and buttons is different in Italy.  Here in the USA, for the most part, we walk through a mega store, locate the aisle with a myriad of buttons on cards, or trimmings wrapped on large spools, and ponder the choices on our own.

In Florence, and I suspect throughout most of Italy, they still do this the old fashioned way.  You have to know what you want before you go in the store!

Now, how does one do that?  In my case, I knew that I would be constructing several Little French Jackets (LFJ).  So, I took with me to Italy large enough samples to see what buttons and trimmings would actually go.  

I was the only person in the (tiny!) store, aside from the clerk (and her friend), and my friend.  For an hour and a half, the clerk, her friend, my friend and I carefully chose the buttons and trimmings for five jackets!!  The benefit of having four pair of eyes on each project is that I got a lot of input, and when I was "stuck" there was a consensus.  Now, how great is that!

The photo above is from my favorite "passamanerie" (trimmings store), Valmar, on Via Porta Rossa, 53 R, Firenze.  http://www.valmar-florence.com.

Another question you might have:  how did I know this store is where one goes for buttons and trimmings for clothing?  Nothing in the window or on display in the store gives much of a clue.   Confession:  I have a little book, "Finding Fabric and Fashion Abroad--Florence" by Jennefer Penfold.  It was published in 2012, so not everything is up-to-date, but it was a help to me in the beginning.

So, for a tiny little "insider" experience, if you go to Italy, and you are a sewist looking for buttons and trimmings, keep this word in mind, "passamanerie."



Wednesday, January 20, 2016

Capsule Wardrobe, Italy 2014, #5


This top is made from the same fabric as CW (Capsule Wardrobe) #3, which I got from marcytilton.com.  I used Vogue 1363 as the pattern, which was designed by Sandra Betzina, known for crafting well-fitting garments.  The black knit fabric is from a locally owned fabric store, Yardage Town.

Here's an interesting observation:  this top is actually very warm, because it is cut close to the body.  On the other hand, the loose fitting kimono style jacket in #3 is not cut close to the body at all, and it is quite well suited to warmer days.  Just one more observation on the fact that style and fabric both play an important role in the final outcome and the eventual use of the garment.

Friday, January 15, 2016

Capsule Wardrobe Italy 2014, #4


Here's the second pair of pants, made from Marcy Tilton's gray ponte.  I used the same fabric for the collar of the jacket you saw earlier in CW #1.  I highly recommend the pattern, V 8925.  It has all the features I look for -- slim lines, a little design interest (unusual seaming, in this case), and a pull-on waist.  There's a little bit of pilling, but I can live with it, using a little scissors, or a specially made pill remover.

The blouse is a light-weight silk from emmaonesock.com.  The pattern is S 2892, which I have made so many times I have to call it a TNT (Tried N' True).   I love silk--it "breathes" -- which means it's comfortable -- and you can pack five or six silk pieces in place of one cotton piece.  Remember, every ounce and every inch count when you are packing for a month or longer.

Saturday, January 9, 2016

What is a "Capsule Wardrobe?"







While many people have created and written about Capsule Wardrobes, the explanation and examples I like best are presented by Nancy Nix-Rice in her recently revised book, Looking Good . . . every day.


The base is a set of colors: a dark neutral, a light neutral, and an accent, plus a print. (In my experience, the print is the hardest to find...)

NNR asks for:
4 underlayer tops, in the three colors and the print.
3 overlayer tops, in the solid colors
3 trousers, in the neutrals


2 skirts, in the dark neutral and the print

I highly advise buying the book to have a look at her handy chart, "Your Basic 12-Piece Capsule Worksheet."

This concept formed the basis for my original 2014 Italy Capsule Wardrobe.

I didn't follow it exactly, as you will see, needing more than four under layer tops, and only one skirt.  I also had to span two seasons and three locations:  late summer in the country and Naples, and early fall in Florence.